Paris

After a warm and easy trip throughout Italy, it was time to pack up the bread and wine and head for Paris! Arriving at Hotel Le Six  http://www.hotel-le-six.com/en/index/ I was intrigued and excited by this hotel and its many reviews. It lived up to its expectations upon check-in when I was greeted late night by a front desk agent, eager to help with my bags. This was only the beginning...the room itself was like a mirage when I walked in and saw the over sized bathtub and lush Molton Brown bath amenities, towels warming on a rack, Evian water complimentary, and Parisian nougat candies bedside. The room was a fantastic size for Paris. Very clean and stocked with slippers and robes, extra towels and blackout drapes. Lacking a view, the many other touches made up for it. The value for money on this mid-range hotel was incredible.

Located in a great spot just across from Rue du Montparnasse, the main crepe street (caloric overload), the hotel is situated on a quiet street in the Latin Quarter and close to the Saint Germain des Pres district. Equipped with its own spa and small lobby bar with ambiance, and a breakfast room with a fantastic buffet breakfast, the hotel although small is a real gem. I would say that this boutique hotel is operating at 5 Star service.

My Paris events included a trip up the Eiffel Tower which took about 3 hours, beginning to end. The lines were hard to deal with, and you have to have patience for the climb. The views from the highest point are well worth it, as on my previous trip to Paris I did not actually go up the tower.

The catacombs were the highlight of the trip for me. Odd I realize, but they are so fascinating and uncommon that I wanted to make the tour through the underground world to experience what happened here. If you are unfamiliar with the Paris catacombs, here is some basic info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catacombs_of_Paris

You really can't go wrong dining in the Latin Quarter or Saint Germain districts. Service can be real spotty and coming from Italy where the people are very warm and welcoming, it was a bit of a rude awakening in France. Tempers and patience can be short and brief, but don't let it ruin your trip. Tipping is not expected in Paris which to me- begs the question of 'where is the incentive for good customer service then?' If I felt that the service was good, I would add a tip at my discretion but it is something you really have to get a feel for.

The hotels were more pricey during this time as the French Open was taking place. Always check Paris events calendar ahead of time to see what you are in for and watch the prices fluctuate. It is a gorgeous and clean city where you will be walking a lot. Pack your walking shoes!!! Should you 'forget' them...stroll down the Champs Elysee and you'll have no issues purchasing :) It is also worth getting lost in the LV Headquarters where you can roam through floor upon floor of beautiful pieces. (And once again...take advantage of the tax refund) Also check out the Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marche, and Printemps department stores to feel like a kid in a candy store!

On my previous trip to Paris I had a great fondue and delicious crepes. This time I made it my mission to go back and find those places I had originally been to three years ago, and I was so happy to see them up and running as usual. If you head to Rue du Montparnasse, the creperie-lined street; you will see an endless line of small creperies bursting with big smells lining both sides of the street. Upon good reviews I found Creperie de Josselin (67 Rue du Montparnasse). Don't be fooled by others with similar names- this one is packed day and night and you may have to wait a short while to squeeze into one of their small tables.

If you're up for trying fondue, go for the bread and/or meat fondue with their variety of cheeses. Often served with potatoes and fries or salad, the cheese was so strong with the smell of alcohol but tasted just like it did three years ago. YUM!

If you want something a little different for dinner, check out Le Relais de Venise  http://www.relaisdevenise.com/  If making decisions is a problem for you, it's time to relax. At this historic restaurant there are only two things on the menu: steak and fries. The steak is served to your liking, half to start and the other half kept warm while you are eating. Go for their house wine and sit back and relax while your dinner is served. The steak and fries come with a dijon-type sauce which seems to be a big hit, although I am not much of a dijon person myself. The restaurant has four hugely successful locations in New York, London, and Paris.

All in all I enjoy Paris as a city that has been designed with much articulate thought and pattern. The intensely manicured streets and well-maintained buildings look like a wonderland from the top of the Eiffel Tower. I cannot say I feel entirely welcomed in this city but I can still manage to enjoy myself completely, getting out of Paris what I wish.

Venezia!

Taking a car service back from Positano to Naples and catching a train to Venice, I arrived to my apartment rented through www.apartmentinitaly.com. I was somewhat skeptical as I had received spotty service up until checking in, but I had high hopes that this 'alternative' Venice stay would be enjoyable....

I have to say in hindsight, I do not recommend an apartment rental in Venice. The location of the apartment itself was decent, only a 10 minute walk to San Marco Square. Located on a quiet side street or walkway, it lacked the ambiance of the hotels that are usually located on busy canal ways. The apartment was well furnished and had the bonus of a kitchen which I really appreciated, however my next trip here will be back to a hotel.

My place was close to the Accademia Bridge, and had a few small shops and restaurants surrounding it; however Venice is a place for walking and exploring so you will be venturing out anyhow. Many warn about the price and quality of food in restaurants near the Square, however I feel like that is where the atmosphere is and I like to situate myself in this area. There are so many paths to explore you can spend a full day just getting lost, but I like to stick to the busier areas for dining.

The shopping is great in Venice. You'll find all the usual: Gucci, Louis, Hermes, Prada, etc. Take advantage of the tax refund and lower prices, and when you are flying out of the airport and file your refund- you will somehow feel like you just received free money! :)  Venice is also known for Murano glass and lace, if this is of interest to you I suggest visiting the actual island of Murano to check out the factories. I have included other shopping details in my earlier post on Venice this past year.

In the past I was an anti-gondola rider, but this time I bit the bullet and hopped in. I always felt it was too impersonal, boating through the canals with many other tourists, people staring and taking pictures.... but late one night after dinner we couldn't help but feel the charm of mysterious Venice and decided to hop in for a little tour through the canals. The gondolier was actually an interesting tour guide and pointed out many of the known/historic buildings, and gave us more of a history lesson on the island. A far cry from the cheesy gondolas at the Venetian Casino Resort in Vegas!

I always like to say that with Venice sinking (as they say), or at least changing, it should be on your list of places too see sooner than later. If you are on a budget, check out sites like Expedia or read my older posts and get a grip on lesser hotels. There is a range, but you want to ensure you are not far from the main attractions as you'll spend too much time commuting.

Positano-Hotel Poseidon

Ahhhhhhh my gem. The beginning and the end... I see why Hemingway fell in love with Positano-    ".... It is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone..." 


I don't think I will ever tire of this place. Every time it feels like coming home and I really cannot pinpoint what is in the air here. Obviously, a vertical city that takes your breath away when you see if for the first time stays with you, not to mention the abundance of character this place holds. I come back here time and again to experience the same sacred place it's always been to me - a sweet spot on the Tyrrhenian Sea.


I set out from Sorrento to travel 30 minutes up the Coast to Positano, arriving at Hotel Poseidon  http://www.hotelposeidonpositano.it/eng/index.html
I had known this hotel previously from staying next door to it at a villa. I knew the location was great considering Positano can be a very tricky place to navigate and to determine the distance from lodging to sea. I was aware of the walk to the beach, and the amount of stairs that are involved. Now I know this makes me sound like THAT girl that has her heels on and won't carry her own luggage, but truth be told, Positano can be difficult even for the most agile of travelers.

Upon arrival I was greeted by members of the Aonzo Family and welcomed to the room which was described as a "Funny Room". I was nervous booking this type of room, but it did not disappoint. It was in fact 'funny', but I LOVED the layout and the fact that it had a huge outdoor terrace overlooking the town. The term 'funny' refers to the fact that you have 5 stairs leading up out of the room onto the terrace. The door to the terrace is somewhat of an oversized window, but it makes for great light into the room when you want it, and a gorgeous escape to the terrace which there are only about 5 other rooms with the same.

The hotel itself is in am ideal location, right across from a great little grocery store which makes yummy panini, and a leisurely walk down into town. The hotel also features a spa which is hard to find in Positano, however, I was far too busy on this trip to lay down in relaxation :) Note: If you are looking for something in town, consider the Palazzo Murat Hotel however there is no pool and you may miss the great views you gain looking out over the town and Coast, as opposed to looking up all the time.

Let's start with the bathroom since this is of utmost importance to me in hotels. I had requested a bath tub which it did in fact have, however, it was so small I could barely stretch out in it! It was pretty much useless so I would have rathered a normal size shower next time. The rest of the bathroom is a good size, ample counter space and bathrobes, products stocked daily and slippers.

The room itself is not large. The bed is slightly hard and a double, the linens nothing to write home about. Keep in mind this is Italy and it is different than North America. My opinion is always that of 'you are in Italy- you are not there to make yourself too comfortable in your room but to enjoy what is outside'. I am a creature of comfort though and appreciate a soothing environment, so I will say that Poseidon is acceptable. The views alone from the pool and dining terrace take in the Coast towards Amalfi, and the live music at night was a nice touch.

The pool is a good size with many loungers and towels. Pool boy will also give you towels to take to the main beach should you need. My terrace was so large I had 2 loungers and a dining set to myself, and it couldn't have been more perfect at night. The sun was so hot the week I was there I had a hard time laying out for any length of time. Walking down to the beach gave me the breeze I needed; and even better, hopping on a boat over to Capri or Amalfi was the perfect day trip.

Capri is about a 30 minute easy trip from Positano by boat and about 30 euros roundtrip. If you head down to the beach you will see several stands offering boat excursions and boats to different places. I recommend seeing Capri, just make sure you check ahead to see if the blue grotto is open or not since it is more often than not closed due to choppy waters. Touring up above Capri to Anacapri is also an option, though most of the action itself is in Capri. Expect pricey meals and gorgeous shopping, this is one to bring the credit cards to! I found a hot selection of Louboutins on the island and the tax free perk keeps the guilt away after a little spending...the Louis V store is of no use here, they have very few items and you would be better off shopping in Venice or elsewhere. Missoni back in Positano is my favorite and always has the most beautiful pieces.

Back to Positano, I frequented a restaurant I found on my last trip called Da Vincenzo www.davincenzo.it which I LOVE LOVE LOVE! It is located just a few doors down from the Poseidon and is run by the owners who are exceptional people. The back of the restaurant is open to the cave it is built into, and has a great rustic feel to it which compliments the dishes. The food was so divine I ate many meals here, and got to know the owners and the son a little better than last time. All of their dishes are fresh and tasty, their seafood being the highlight. 


If you are shopping for any of the typical Amalfian pottery, check out Maria Grazia Ceramiche, located not too far from the main intersection in town where the Tobacchi is located. Here, they will offer to ship your goods home for you which was perfect considering I was in no situation to travel with, or had the weight allowance. They have beautiful pieces you will see elsewhere on the Coast except the service here takes the cake. 


For a great dinner check out Buca di Bacco, or rather the below portion of the restaurant. It is located in one of the best spots right on the beach and has a great patio which is open in good weather, right on the edge of the sea! Neighboring restaurants are Tre Sorelle and Chez Black, both which are 'ok'. 


Note: If gluten is getting to you which it was for me, check out any of the deli's or small grocery stops and ask at the meat counters for a salad. They should have no problem whipping you up one. Panini, pasta, and pizza are going to be plenty but if you're here for any amount of time, your system can start to be affected. 


Amalfi town is another great day trip, and if you want a little extra sightseeing take a bus up to Ravello which is said to be one of the most romantic places to stay, although a little too quiet for my liking. Amalfi Cathedral is interesting to walk through, you can sit at one of the many restaurant patios in the square and take it all in. The shopping is typical souvenirs, probably a better place to purchase than Positano however a few hours here is all you really need.


While Positano is more pricey to travel to and stay in, I think it is so worth the elevated costs. You are situated in one of the most breathtaking places in the world like no other; and waking up and falling asleep to the sounds, smells, and sights in Positano are priceless. Both villa rentals and hotels are a great choice, just be certain to check the distance to sea and town so you know what you are in for. I have stayed at some villas here that the climb was too much, especially for anyone who is older or out of shape. Great villa rental sites are: www.vrbo.com and http://www.renttuscany.com (choose Amalfi Coast)

Sorrento!

Wrapping up my week in Sorrento, and my week at Sorrento Lingue Language School; I have formed some new feelings for this town at the beginning of the Amalfi Coast that I did not previously have.

Hotel Bristol was amazing http://www.bristolsorrento.com/en/index.php  It was the perfect place to relax and study, especially with my head full of the language of love! I ADORED the roof top pool terrace with many private loungers and spots to cuddle up with a book, every nook and cranny overlooking the Bay Of Naples.

I was more impressed with Sorrento this time around as I had more time to explore. I managed to find a small grocery store 'CONAD' just below The Bristol and Hotel Capodimante, but be aware they are some of the rudest people I've ever met. Get in, get what you need, and get out. There is also a small hole in the wall wine shop just across and down from The Bristol where you can grab panini during the day, beer, wine, and snacks. The main tourist area at Piazza Tasso is always busy, and on the weekend closed off to vehicular traffic which was nice.

At the water you will not see beaches as we know them. They are mainly rocky with some loungers, so if a soft sand beach is your thing- carry on. I like to use Sorrento as a starting off point to explore the neighbouring areas such as Positano, Capri, Amalfi, Ravello, etc. The hotel was actually full of British people when I was there and they mainly seemed to be staying on the hotel property relaxing, eating their meals in. I personally would rather explore, but if relaxation is what you're looking for- then do as you please. The flight is not long for them so it is an ideal spot to come and stay.

Some extra details regarding the Bristol- the coffee sucks. I know you come to Italy expecting great coffee anywhere you go...but it really is bad here. The safe: I had major issues when first trying to operate it, thankfully the hotel owner came and showed me how to work this tricky one. The street in front of the hotel: beware-its dangerous! The super busy road around a bend makes it difficult to cross, be prepared to wait a while when crossing. Cafe Veneruso- Once you get to the bottom of the main road from Bristol where town starts, you'll see the big red awning on the right side. Stop in for pastries and coffee. This was my morning ritual that I am now cursing it as I work off the extra weight. The owner behind the cash register was even so cute to try to teach me new words in Italian each day since he knew I was studying at Sorrento Lingue :)
The pool: unheated so even in the hot midday sun it is freezing. Be sure to tip the pool waitress. I unfortunately cannot remember her name (names are not my strong point) however she is there day in and day out and works her butt off. The sun stayed hot until 7pm at least so it made for a long afternoon at the pool, which around 4:00 or 5:00 turned into 'tea time' with my Brits!
Get to know Giancarlo (owner), Ercole and Salvatore. They are always at the hotel and would check in with me every day to make sure everything was ok.
Housekeeping: Grrrrrr.....I have a tiny issue here. Every day at turn down time, she would knock briefly and lightly and storm right in the room. The first 2 times she did this I let her know she did not give me enough time to get to the door, but she wasn't really understanding. By the 7th day I almost lost it. I also heard many other people at the hotel saying they had run ins with her as well, just walking into their rooms.
Bottle Opener: Bring your own! I asked several times and could not get one. Considering the mini bar is full of  bottles that require an opener, I am not sure why they don't provide one. I considered going back to my high school days of keg parties and trying to pop the top off myself, but after breaking a few nails I just went and bought one at the grocery store.
In room dining menu: I could not get one. I asked and asked and they basically directed me to the menu posted outside the restaurant. I went the first day and wrote down the menu to keep in my room, but by Day 4 I just would call chef and ask him for what I felt like, knowing you can get away with this in Italy. Every kitchen has many pastas available, and the ingredients are fairly standard so he had no issue whipping me up tagliatelle with seafood, or roasted chicken.
TV: It did not work most of the time I was there. I did not bother making it an issue since ....well....I was in ITALY! I was not there to watch TV. I had a balcony jacuzzi and an amazing view of Mt. Vesuvius, not to mention all that walking and studying made me exhausted. I could fall into bed and care less about TV.
Transportation: I had the most amazing driver as of yet: Paolo Bellantonio car service at www.bellantoniolimoservice.com or +39 081 5342293, was a fantastic driver that picked me up from the airport, drove me to Positano, and from Positano back to the train station in Naples. He was so professional and funny, sweet and generous. He also offers day trips around the Coast and really does know it inside out. He navigates the curves and turns with ease and has a selection of vehicles to suit. A Mercedes from airport to hotel, and a van from hotel to train station after much shopping and heavy luggage :) I have used many car services and this one takes the cake.

I have to say The Bristol renewed my confidence in Sorrento as a destination. I am partial to Positano and make that my #1, but I have already decided to go back again and study, staying at the Hotel Bristol. The service is unparalleled, they pour their hearts and souls into their work and the property and it shows. For a week straight I felt a part of the Bristol family and enjoyed getting to know the staff. Best of all- my week was relaxing and easy and a perfect setting to study.