Monday, June 6, 2011
Positano-Hotel Poseidon
Ahhhhhhh my gem. The beginning and the end... I see why Hemingway fell in love with Positano- ".... It is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone..."
I don't think I will ever tire of this place. Every time it feels like coming home and I really cannot pinpoint what is in the air here. Obviously, a vertical city that takes your breath away when you see if for the first time stays with you, not to mention the abundance of character this place holds. I come back here time and again to experience the same sacred place it's always been to me - a sweet spot on the Tyrrhenian Sea.
I set out from Sorrento to travel 30 minutes up the Coast to Positano, arriving at Hotel Poseidon http://www.hotelposeidonpositano.it/eng/index.html
I had known this hotel previously from staying next door to it at a villa. I knew the location was great considering Positano can be a very tricky place to navigate and to determine the distance from lodging to sea. I was aware of the walk to the beach, and the amount of stairs that are involved. Now I know this makes me sound like THAT girl that has her heels on and won't carry her own luggage, but truth be told, Positano can be difficult even for the most agile of travelers.
Upon arrival I was greeted by members of the Aonzo Family and welcomed to the room which was described as a "Funny Room". I was nervous booking this type of room, but it did not disappoint. It was in fact 'funny', but I LOVED the layout and the fact that it had a huge outdoor terrace overlooking the town. The term 'funny' refers to the fact that you have 5 stairs leading up out of the room onto the terrace. The door to the terrace is somewhat of an oversized window, but it makes for great light into the room when you want it, and a gorgeous escape to the terrace which there are only about 5 other rooms with the same.
The hotel itself is in am ideal location, right across from a great little grocery store which makes yummy panini, and a leisurely walk down into town. The hotel also features a spa which is hard to find in Positano, however, I was far too busy on this trip to lay down in relaxation :) Note: If you are looking for something in town, consider the Palazzo Murat Hotel however there is no pool and you may miss the great views you gain looking out over the town and Coast, as opposed to looking up all the time.
Let's start with the bathroom since this is of utmost importance to me in hotels. I had requested a bath tub which it did in fact have, however, it was so small I could barely stretch out in it! It was pretty much useless so I would have rathered a normal size shower next time. The rest of the bathroom is a good size, ample counter space and bathrobes, products stocked daily and slippers.
The room itself is not large. The bed is slightly hard and a double, the linens nothing to write home about. Keep in mind this is Italy and it is different than North America. My opinion is always that of 'you are in Italy- you are not there to make yourself too comfortable in your room but to enjoy what is outside'. I am a creature of comfort though and appreciate a soothing environment, so I will say that Poseidon is acceptable. The views alone from the pool and dining terrace take in the Coast towards Amalfi, and the live music at night was a nice touch.
The pool is a good size with many loungers and towels. Pool boy will also give you towels to take to the main beach should you need. My terrace was so large I had 2 loungers and a dining set to myself, and it couldn't have been more perfect at night. The sun was so hot the week I was there I had a hard time laying out for any length of time. Walking down to the beach gave me the breeze I needed; and even better, hopping on a boat over to Capri or Amalfi was the perfect day trip.
Capri is about a 30 minute easy trip from Positano by boat and about 30 euros roundtrip. If you head down to the beach you will see several stands offering boat excursions and boats to different places. I recommend seeing Capri, just make sure you check ahead to see if the blue grotto is open or not since it is more often than not closed due to choppy waters. Touring up above Capri to Anacapri is also an option, though most of the action itself is in Capri. Expect pricey meals and gorgeous shopping, this is one to bring the credit cards to! I found a hot selection of Louboutins on the island and the tax free perk keeps the guilt away after a little spending...the Louis V store is of no use here, they have very few items and you would be better off shopping in Venice or elsewhere. Missoni back in Positano is my favorite and always has the most beautiful pieces.
Back to Positano, I frequented a restaurant I found on my last trip called Da Vincenzo www.davincenzo.it which I LOVE LOVE LOVE! It is located just a few doors down from the Poseidon and is run by the owners who are exceptional people. The back of the restaurant is open to the cave it is built into, and has a great rustic feel to it which compliments the dishes. The food was so divine I ate many meals here, and got to know the owners and the son a little better than last time. All of their dishes are fresh and tasty, their seafood being the highlight.
If you are shopping for any of the typical Amalfian pottery, check out Maria Grazia Ceramiche, located not too far from the main intersection in town where the Tobacchi is located. Here, they will offer to ship your goods home for you which was perfect considering I was in no situation to travel with, or had the weight allowance. They have beautiful pieces you will see elsewhere on the Coast except the service here takes the cake.
For a great dinner check out Buca di Bacco, or rather the below portion of the restaurant. It is located in one of the best spots right on the beach and has a great patio which is open in good weather, right on the edge of the sea! Neighboring restaurants are Tre Sorelle and Chez Black, both which are 'ok'.
Note: If gluten is getting to you which it was for me, check out any of the deli's or small grocery stops and ask at the meat counters for a salad. They should have no problem whipping you up one. Panini, pasta, and pizza are going to be plenty but if you're here for any amount of time, your system can start to be affected.
Amalfi town is another great day trip, and if you want a little extra sightseeing take a bus up to Ravello which is said to be one of the most romantic places to stay, although a little too quiet for my liking. Amalfi Cathedral is interesting to walk through, you can sit at one of the many restaurant patios in the square and take it all in. The shopping is typical souvenirs, probably a better place to purchase than Positano however a few hours here is all you really need.
While Positano is more pricey to travel to and stay in, I think it is so worth the elevated costs. You are situated in one of the most breathtaking places in the world like no other; and waking up and falling asleep to the sounds, smells, and sights in Positano are priceless. Both villa rentals and hotels are a great choice, just be certain to check the distance to sea and town so you know what you are in for. I have stayed at some villas here that the climb was too much, especially for anyone who is older or out of shape. Great villa rental sites are: www.vrbo.com and http://www.renttuscany.com (choose Amalfi Coast)

